Problem: Where can we go when we only have two nights and a day to spare? We chose Mary River Park, still one of the best-kept secrets in the Territory, Mary River Park is only a little more than an hour from Darwin, except that when you are there it could well be a thousand miles from civilization!
The Mary River is a wild, 300 kilometre long ribbon of billabongs, water holes and wetlands that hosts fewer than 20 permanent human residents, and teems with wildlife and exotic vegetation.
In the wet season it is a raging torrent, draining a huge catchment bounded by Kakadu in the east and the Stuart Highway and Tennant Creek in the west.
Finally it surges onto the wetlands through Sampan and Tommycutt Creeks and spews seaward into Chambers Bay and the Arafura Sea, leaving a tea stain of discoloured water many miles out to sea.
Mary River Park is uniquely situated just off the Arnhem Highway, the main road between Darwin and Kakadu, and is on the eastern bank of the Mary River about 100kms from the mouth. The tidal influence stops at a rockbar called Shady Camp, about 50kms to the north. The water is sweet and drinkable, despite the slight tannin colour caused by the falling leaves from overhanging trees.Leaving our shop at Palmerston at 6:30pm, by seven thirty we were welcomed and installed in our private cabin at Mary River Park. Emma had already arranged to have the air con turned on to cool the room for our arrival. We later discovered that she has won awards from Tourism Top End for her friendly and helpful hospitality.
The cabins are set in well-maintained parkland, and are surrounded by lawns, exotic palms and shrubs. Each cabin is air-conditioned and has a minimum of a double and a single bed. Many have sheltered verandahs and all have well appointed ensuites with showers.
After a visit to nearby historic Bark Hut Pub for dinner we showered and slept well in cool comfort. A chorus of birds woke me at first light, and I wandered over to make Aileen's early morning cuppa from the restaurant dining area. There are tea and coffee making facilities open 24 hours. Even at this early hour mine host Mike Ostwald waylaid me, and Aileen's tea was delayed for quite a while as we had a chat.
"...I've been fishing this waterway for fifteen years, and thought I knew it well "
I soon discovered that Mike is quite good at that, and is a mine of information about the river, its wildlife and the surrounding area. Mike, his wife Gina, and Emma, took over Mary River Park about five years ago, and have developed the complex into an outstanding and unique resort nestled right on the riverbank and offering accommodation options from camping, and caravans with powered sites to the air conditioned comfort we had.
The grounds are well- watered lawns with numerous shady river gums and paperbarks. As well there are facilities for back packers and tourist buses. Mikes day often starts with a "Breakfast with the Stars" cruise in the early morning glow of a Mary River dawn. Today, however, we had a relaxing start to the day with a three-hour Wildlife Cruise at eight-o clock. We joined Mike and fellow travellers from Germany, New Zealand, and other parts of Australia in an exploration of the Mary River.
I've been fishing this waterway for fifteen years, and thought I knew it well. I was enthralled by Mike's commentary and the in-depth knowledge he was able to share over the next 10 kilometres or so of river. First we travelled upstream to a picturesque sandbank, with towering tree lined cliffs on one side and a dense bush covered bank full of many varieties of tropical birdlife. Mike explained "this is the venue for our Aussie Bush Dinners.
Our Sunset and Star Gazers Tour disembarks onto this sandbar, which we surround with a safety fence to keep the crocs away, and here we enjoy genuine Camp Oven Stew and Home Made Damper that Gina prepares for us.
As the sun sets, the fire and mosquito flares make sure that any crocodiles stay safely away, though we can often see their distinctive bright red eyes off in the distance.
The most popular part of the evening is the after dinner entertainment," he explained "where plenty of bush yarns are spun, some of which are true, poetry recited and a sing-a-long accompanied by guitar and harmonica, before the boat trip home in the bright starlight and cooling river air."
"...permanent water provided by the river and the billabongs attracts birds by the thousand."
"The Top End is a hot, dry and thirsty environment away from the waterways, " he said, "and so the permanent water provided by the river and the billabongs attracts birds by the thousand. There are over 50 separate family groups of birds and literally hundreds of different species, ranging from wrens and robins, kingfishers, parrots, owls, bee-eaters, to the larger cranes, ibis, and sea eagles." On our trip we saw a number of White Breasted Sea Eagles, Azure Kingfisher, Whistling Kite, as well as a glimpse of the "White" Grey Goshawk! Mike said this bird was only found in a few locations throughout the world.
"...we like to show wildlife in its natural state."
As well, later in the day, as we were drifting through a heavily shadowed stretch of water, we heard the plaintive cry of the equally rare Rufous Owl. There has been only one sighting in the last few years, so these are very special.
No trip on the Mary is complete without numerous sightings of the two local crocodile species, the Saltwater and the Johnson River or freshwater crocodile. Mike said that in four years of cruises he had never had a trip that failed to find either one of these. "Our cruises are very much in tune with nature and we like to show wildlife in its natural state" he said. "Although there are crocodiles in the Top End that have been trained to perform and fed somewhat like pet dogs, we like to show people the reality of our wildlife, and certainly have too much respect for any species than to feed it in the wild."
On our trip we probably spotted a dozen Salties and numerous Freshwater Crocodiles, including the biggest either Mike or I had ever seen on the river, a specimen not overly long but so fat it would have taken a few men to lift what looked to be around 200kgs.
Mike explained that we were in between seasons, and in a couple of weeks, when the nights cooled down the crocs would be out early in the morning picking up the sun and getting warm. He pointed out a spot on the bank where cattle and buffalo come down regularly to drink. " I know of a least four animals that have been taken by big crocs from here over the last few years," he said. "Although they only have a brain about the size of a pea the saltwater crocodile is a very patient and cunning hunter, often stalking his prey and patiently "planning" an attack over a period of weeks." He said.
"This stretch of the Mary River is an important breeding area so we have a large number of juveniles and babies of both species. Later in the year as the humidity rises and the storms start to push in from Kakadu, the large males can become very aggressive and need to be approached with great care" he said.
On the way home Mike took a detour to show us one of the "hidden" billabongs that was no more than five minutes walk from the main waterway. "This one is a part of the "Hardies Lagoon" system and we come this way each day on our Four Wheel Drive Wetlands Tour. It is not uncommon to see wild buffalo here in the early morning or late afternoon.
"...the only sign of her previous existence was the tip of her rod rising like a periscope from the depths"
After lunch in the bar, a swim in the shaded pool, and the compulsory afternoon "siesta" we joined Mike and his guests on a sunset trip upstream. Mike suggested we bring along our fishing gear, and within a few minutes Aileen was locked into a good-sized catfish. Not welcomed by local anglers, they none the less give a good account of themselves, and it was a few minutes before the large spikey fish was landed and released.
I suppose all guides see their share of human fun and frailty during their careers, but Mike reckons what happened next was as good as anything. We pulled up in the mouth of the McKinley River, and in her haste to beat me to the best looking snags, Aileen misjudged her footing and without warning completely into the water. The only sign of her previous existence was the tip of her rod rising like a periscope from the depths. Some quick work by Mike and myself soon had her pulled back on board, wet, disheveled and giggling with delight at my own embarrassment. She proudly informed everyone that she had managed to retain her hat, rod and reel, her glasses and her teeth!
The humour soon turned somewhat sour as we realised that my $500 Mako prescription Polaroid's had gone to the bottom in the confusion. With a known 16 foot croc in the area, there was no question of another "dive" to recover them, and Aileen took great delight in informing the rest of the passengers that she had dived in to rescue my sunglasses!
".....the Mary River Billabong ........ produces fish that eat as well as saltwater fish."
Revenge is sweet, so they say and a few minutes later my "secret weapon" for fishing around sundown struck again, first with a barra about 50cms, then something much more substantial that persisted in moving a lot of water and a lot of line all at once. The fight was spectacular in the soft evening light and the big barra jumped and pounded across the glassy water, trying desperately to free itself of the purple Barra Classic firmly hooked in its mouth. Eventually we landed a fish a tad under 90cms, as bright and silver as you would ever wish to see in the fresh water.
Normally we would release a fish like this, but this occasion called for an evening banquet, so we soon had it cleaned and on ice. Billabong fish in the Territory can be a bit "muddy' but the Mary River Billabong has a mostly sandy bottom, and produces fish that eat as well as saltwater fish. This one proved no exception and after the tender ministrations of Emma fed four of us in a superb meal later that night.
Mary River Park is one of my favourite places to relax, unwind and spend some quality time fishing the numerous "hotspots" The bar area with pool table, a la carte meals and an abundance of local "characters" is the ideal place to end a special day. As well there are bush walks of up to 5 kilometres; well marked tracks abounding with wildlife and wonderful snapshots of the riverland and its inhabitants.
It is the ideal base for a camping or caravan sojourn being within easy driving distance of the parks: Kakadu and Lichfield; the big rivers: South and East Alligators, Shady Camp and the Adelaide; and the Billabongs Coroborree, Hardies and Rockhole. There is an abundance of activities, what we call "The Mary River Experience," or conversely acres of grassland, ample shade and enough excuses to spend a relaxing day doing nothing!
It is the ideal base for a camping or caravan sojourn being within easy driving distance of the parks: Kakadu and Lichfield; the big rivers: South and East Alligators, Shady Camp and the Adelaide; and the Billabongs Coroborree, Hardies and Rockhole. There is an abundance of activities, what we call "The Mary River Experience," or conversely acres of grassland, ample shade and enough excuses to spend a relaxing day doing nothing!
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